November 11, 2026
An ancient Egyptian temple at night – illuminated by lights so bright.
The next stop on our Nile boat-trip from Aswan to Luxor, the ancient capital of the Upper Kingdom, was the city of Esna, home to the temple of the ancient Egyptian god Khnum. The ancient Egyptians had a great many gods (here’s the list); Khnum was a creator-god who molded the first humans out of clay. But to study all that in detail you’d need to dive into further reading; we, meanwhile, just headed for the temple:

On the way to the temple we were told that, over thousands of years, the temple had sunk down through the soft rock beneath it, and that’s why it had sunk so deep into the ground – by some 15 meters. But somehow I don’t buy it. The earth’s strata aren’t uniform, so a temple “sinking” down through them would most likely have simply fallen apart. So the earthen walls around it are probably the cultural layer built up over the millennia, plus the desert sands, which have buried a great many structures along the Nile.


















