Kamchatka’s old Route 264: the views therefrom – top-drawer.

Forty kilometers to the south of Kronotsky there are two “cult” Kamchatkan volcanisms: (i) the Uzon volcanic caldera… ->

…and the famous Valley of Geysers ->

This year, instead of choppering in, looking about for a bit, then choppering off again, we decided to do a multi-day trek along the old Soviet Route No. 264…

The original route from back in the day is about ~190 kilometers (!), so we settled for doing around half that – to trek as far as the Valley of Geysers, and then have the helicopter pick us up. All righty – let’s be off!…

First – a nice spot of Kamchatkan beach-walking; later – forest and hills and assorted obstacles ->

Some nights we were in tents…

…Others in cabins:

We were able to trek free of heavy backpacks since the helicopter took all our kit onward for us: a most welcome logistical bonus – which complemented the oh-my-gorgeous views all around throughout our whole trek perfectly:

Fumaroles of Burlyashy volcano:

Alas – as it’s wont to do – the Kamchatkan weather turned bad, so for a full two days we couldn’t see much above the feet of volcanoes:

But by the time we arrived at Uzon and the Valley of Geysers it had cleared up. Accordingly, up goes the drone! ->

Everyone loving it – both newbies and old-hands ->

The Valley of Geysers – truly unique:

Sure – there are other great geysers in the world, but none so extensive and in a mountain setting. Access to the Valley is tightly restricted – you need to walk there from Uzon with an inspector. No tour groups allowed, and the blessing of the national-park management is needed.

Bubbling mud baths ->

“Devil’s Gateway”. But I think “Devil’s Eyes” would be a better name:

Around 5km to the northeast of the Valley of Geysers at the foot of Kikhpinych volcano there’s another valley with a similarly descriptive – albeit spooky – name: the Valley of Death! ->

All very beautiful and natural – but…

Turns out the emissions around here are poisonous – killing unlucky wild animals that stray into the area. Poor things (and stinky things after their demise; oof). Apparently there’s a toxic layer that reaches just a meter up from the ground so humans should be ok (if they’re not squatting or bending down).

These days only 85 visitors are allowed to trek Route 264 per year – be they scientists researching the area or tourists. Yes – we were lucky :).

That’s all for today folks. More, of course, coming up!…

The rest of the photos from Kamchatka-2024 are here.