There aren’t many places in the world where you can find world-class, mind-blowingly beautiful natural objects… without the typical crowds of tourists. But in Kamchatka – you can!…

Of course, I’ve been seeing – and mentioning in my blogposts – the steady rise in the numbers of tourists that visit Kamchatka in recent years, but, all the same, given Kamchatka’s vast size (bigger than the UK), those are still a mere drop in the ocean.

Perhaps the most striking example of the relative touristlessness of Kamchatka can be found at the southernmost end of the peninsula – where there are the two unique and astonishingly grandiose volcanoes – Kambalny and Koshelev. Here’s Kambalny and its eponymous ridge:

And here’s Koshelev:

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Onward – southward, heading for the inimitable Ksudach volcano – a… Countach among the peninsula’s fastest retro 12-cylinder biggest and most striking volcanoes!…

I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve been here, but it could be a hundred and I’d never tire of it: its colossal caldera, the new crater growing up inside it, and the two luscious lakes: oh my gigantically grand, green and grandiose!…

The drone comes into its own here:

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It was farewell to Ksudach, as we choppered down toward the Kambalny and Koshelev volcanoes – which are so far south that you can clearly see three of the northern Kuril Islands. On the way, we passed both Ilynsky volcano and Kurile Lake…

Kurile Lake in so-so weather ->

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If ever you hear the Russian for “town” (gorod) uttered in Kamchatka, what are normally being referred to are the practically conjoined towns of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky and Yelizovo (where around two-thirds of the population of the whole peninsula live – ~200,000 out of ~290,000) – here. It’s what happens when there’s a single… micropolis in a region ).

Behind the town there are three charming volcanoes, fondly referred to as the domashny volcanoes – domashny meaning “homely”, “domesticated” (as in – not wild), or “of the home” – kind of like… a pet, or the comforts of a home (also a “home” instead of, say, a “pro” version of something like a product).

Aaaaaany way, the domashnies are the Koryaksky, Avachinsky and Kozelsky volcanoes, which form the much cherished and appreciated backdrop to the administrative center of Kamchatka. Cherished and appreciated, that is, when they’re visible, which is rarely – including when we were there this year, when we only caught brief glimpses of them between passing clouds from the helicopter:

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Hi folks!

You’ve had volcanoes and geysers and out-of-this-world scenery; now for the more practical side to life in Kamchatka – where to bed down of a night!…

First, let me state the obvious: Kamchatka’s no resort. It has long beaches, but the ocean’s always cold; and Kamchatka’s also hard – and expensive – to get to given it’s so remote. Accordingly, there aren’t the corresponding hundreds of large chain hotels dotting its coastline. But, obviously, there have to be places to stay – and there are; they’re just more modest than your Marriott’s and Hiltons, etc. Nevertheless, the places to stay and the level of service at them is decent, and getting better by the year – as we keep finding out ourselves…

Our first overnight is practically always in or near the village of Paratunka, not far from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky – here. Why? Because it’s built upon magical hot springs: hot, pure mineral water on tap and in the pools of all the guesthouses in the village – which range from the bare basics to rather the luxurious…

This year we spent the night in the village next door to Paratunka called Termalny (Thermal). And here’s the guesthouse we stayed in:

And here’s its naturally-heated pool. Yes – new. Yes – very nice! And just look at the view!…

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Onward – southward, from Bakening in the direction of Lake Tolmachova – where we were to stay overnight next…

The scenery – once again – magical:

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Hi folks!

Kamchatka – the remote peninsula that just keeps on giving (you more and more OMG-astonishing-bewildering-meditationing-mindblowing impressions and sensations). But you know that already if you’re not new to this here blog of mine. If you are new – read on: you’ll get the drift in a single post – this one!…

And so, onward we choppered – along the Sreddiny Range after our brief landing on Khangar. Next up – as you’ve already guessed from the title: the volcano called Bakening. No – not Báke-ening, but Bakéning, so you can banish images of either baking a cake, or frying streaky bacon with your full English right now – before you work up an untimely appetite!…

[Returning from the kitchen…] Now where was I? Ah yes – Bakéning volcano…

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Hi folks!

The Kamchatkan peninsula is where the North American and Pacific tectonic plates meet and constantly rub against each other – warping, destroying, and rebuilding the territory. This process leads to all sorts of natural wonders – both underground and on the surface…

Now, the volcanoes we’d already checked out on our Kamchatka-2024 trip (the Klyuchevsky group, Kizimen, Tolbachik, the Uzon caldera, the Valley of Geysers) happen to be rather new creations of nature. The Valley of Geysers is only several thousand years old (judging by the geyserite, apparently), and the mentioned volcanoes and others nearby are also mere wee nippers: merely tens of thousands of years old – not millions, and certainly not tens of millions like, for example, the Himalayas.

Thus, the east coast of Kamchatka and all the volcanisms along it I’ve already shown you are all relative new kids on the block peninsula. But down the middle of Kamchatka is the so-called Sredinny Range (sredinny = middle) – where there was volcanic activity hundreds of thousands of years ago – if not millions…

And it’s beautiful – incredibly so. And that’s where we were headed next…

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Fifteen kilometers southwest of Maly Semyachik is one of the two largest active volcanoes in Kamchatka (the other is Shiveluch) – Karymsky. Being so big and active, it’s a must-see – but only in fine weather. Alas, this year we simply flew past it a since – as the title of this post states – the weather wasn’t great, plus Karymsky’s peak was shrouded in cloud…

I’d long dreamed of one day sitting on the bank of Karymsky Lake, located next to Karymsky volcano, on a sunny day to be able to take a photo of the volcano’s reflection on the lake’s surface – but this year it wasn’t to be. Next time. Still, even on this overcast day the views weren’t so bad – albeit without the reflection off the lake…

No – that’s not Karymsky smoking; it’s cloud cover ->

But Karymsky is a known – inveterate! – smoker. Shouldn’t he have given up already? Here he is a few years ago – caught behind the bike sheds ->

The shape of the cone up top keeps changing as a result of the frequent eruptions…

Here it is in 2006:

Here in 2012:

April 2013 (note how one side of the upper cone is warmer than the other) ->

2021 (the cone covered in its own ash) ->

Also 2021:

PS: To give you the full picture – between Karymsky and Maly Semyachik winds the Karymsky River (whose source is Karymsky Lake). Yes – names tend to repeat each other round here…

The river’s cut out a canyon and dozens of waterfalls; here are two of them:

And that’s all for today, folks. But I’ll be back soon with more tales from the Kamchatka-2024 side…

All the photos from our trip are here.

Route 264 and the Valley of Geysers and Uzon caldera – done.

Next up on our Kamchatka-2024 summer vacation – Maly (Little) Semyachik – one of the three Semyachik-family volcanoes (the other two being Bolshoi (Big) Semyachik and Tsentralny (Central) Semyachik. So – why Maly, if it’s the little one? Actually, little or no – Maly is still an oh-my-grandiose-and-gorgeous volcano. See for yourself! ->

Inside its oval-shaped crater there sits that there beautiful lake, which measures around 800×1000 meters. I’d have described the lake just now as bright-turquoise colored – if it stayed bright turquoise all the time, but it doesn’t. Depending on (i) the particular acidity of its water fluid at a particular point in time, and (ii) how much light there is (in turn dependent on the time of day, the season of the year, and the weather) at that same particular point in time, it changes color: a chameleon lake! ->

Read on…