August 2, 2024
From Khayyr to Nayba – on the winter road we did labor.
Last week, I left you with us in a schotel in Khayyr. Today…
…Things were getting decidedly more polar – no vegetation whatsoever, and flat white expanses all around as far as the eye could see – much like up around the North Pole! ->
The going was sometimes rough and slow – despite our driving upon ice (under snow cover), which should have meant smooth, plain sailing cruising…
But at other times – especially as it crossed the Laptev Sea – the winter road was a smooth as silk once again, permitting speeds of over 100 km/h ->
As the conditions became more extreme – and extremely northern – some of the “features” up here did too; for example – arctic Fata Morgana mirages. In the following pic, you can just about make some out: on the horizon are what looks like snow-covered mountains – you see? ->
But there’s actually nothing mountain-like over there whatsoever – it’s all just mirages!
Regarding our route, our original plan was to get to the village of Nayba on this day, and then on to Tiksi the day after. However, given the good weather and its good forecast, we decided to drive all the way to Tiksi in one day; like this:
However, I’ll split my tales on this last leg up to our destination into two, for there’s quite a bit I want to tell you about and show you. Thus, this post is all about our drive from Khayyr to Nayba (pronounced Naiíba)…
As per, we were up at the crack and off before sunrise…
So – Khayyr. It’s home to around 400 folks, and it’s covered in snow for 250-265 days a year. But of course it is – it’s on the 70th parallel north. (Those above-ground pipes carry hot water to homes, btw.) Which reminded me of the hit from 1968 – “Folks of the 70th Parallel” (switch to English subs)! ->
And we’re off! …
…First – under the moon ->
…Then the sun ->
The winter road sits upon the Omoloy river ->
At first smooth, later – ouch: bumpy, and with deep ruts made by heavy trucks – so deep we had to be careful (and go slow enough so) we didn’t scrape our undersides ->
Suddenly, oncoming “traffic” – the first we’d seen since Severny. Beep, beep – naturally ). You’ll notice there were two trucks together; that’s the standard formation up here: safety in numbers ->
Approaching the Laptev Sea, I wondered who Laptev was. Later, I looked it up, and it turns out there were two Laptevs – naval officer Khariton Laptev, and Vice Admiral Dmitry Laptev – both arctic explorers in the 1700s!
And this is us already upon the frozen-over Laptev Sea ->
I was reminded of Antarctica. You have to agree, they look similar! ->
Alas, looking at these photos (of Antarctica)… sure – they’re wonderful pics; the only problem is they don’t get anywhere near capturing what it’s like to behold such scenes in the flesh. The “spirit” of the place just doesn’t translate. Maybe it’s something to do with how just one of the sense organs – the eyes – are put to use down there, as if the lack of the others makes the visuals all the stronger. For there are no sounds here, no smells. Only what you can see with your two eyes and be bowled over by.
And up here near the North Pole the intensified visual sensations are very similar. There’s also the same windswept snow-cover, which freezes and allows you to walk over it without sinking into it’s probably significant depth – as demonstrated here in DZ’s photo ->
More Fata Morgana ->
A Forta Morgana city on the horizon! ->
Manhattan skyline in the arctic Laptev Sea above Russia. Who’d have thought it?! ->
Meanwhile, the going had gotten rough ->
What look like snow drifts over there are actually ice constructions by the sea ->
“The color of our pickups was perfect for the snow desert” – an entry in the expedition-diary around here.
Suddenly, the unexpected: “street” signs – on the Laptev Sea! ->
Smoother stretch ->
Another unexpectedness: oncoming… – amphibious all-terrain traffic! The TREKOL had just come from Tiksi…
Along the way we passed the remains of an ancient boat – frozen in time in the frozen Laptev Sea! ->
By the looks of the nails used to construct it (which some of our group tried to extract to take away as mementos), I’d reckon it’s hails back to the 19th century! ->
Here‘s where the shipwreck is today:
ТРЕЩИНЫ = TRESHINI = CRACKS!
Yes more unexpectedness: a sharp incline. But it proved no problem for our Tanks – despite our doubts ->
// Btw, in the pic that’s Evgeny Shatalov (in the red coat), and Alexander Yelikov (blue coat) – our expedition organizers and guides.
Onward – back on land ->
Nayba appears on the horizon:
With a population of just 500 – mostly Evens – the village is a modest affair, surviving on fishing and sometimes hunting (probably of dear). The satellite dishes point down, since the sputniks are below the horizon! ->
Another arctic village – another school building. This time though – not a schotel, but a schafé, where we had lunch. Tasty it was too! ->
The shoreline with its summer debris all washed up along it ->
And so – the first leg of this day’s driving: done. Curiously, there’s only one “Welcome to Nayba” sign on its outskirts – facing Tiksi. I guess they’re not used to folks arriving from the other side whence we came ) ->
And yes – the “Welcome to Nayba” sign means we’d already passed through it (after eating there) and were already on our way to… Tiksi! ->
The rest of the photos from our Yakutsk-Tiksi-Yakutsk road trip are here.
